Hittin and Jethro's Tomb

25 April 1983

Nabi Yitro
Today was the Druze festival of Nabi Yitro so I went to celebrate with them at Hittin outside Tiberias. When I arrived I was so disappointed to have missed most of the festivities. But I entered the mammoth building still hoping to see something of the religious customs. The building is huge – and all for the use of these pilgrims on their yearly pilgrimage to the grave. I went up into the grave room and looked respectfully at the holy site. People were kissing a slab of rock in the floor which had an indentation shaped something like a figure-eight, larger than my foot. They told me it is the footprint of Jethro. He was bitten at this spot by a snake – but instead of Jethro dying, it was the snake that died. Then I entered the “tent” of drapings which surrounded the sarcophagus. The respectful protocol is to kiss the sarcophagus and then touch your head to the same spot. I was struck by the religious conviction of these people. This site clearly means so much to them and they have such an intensity, such a reverence for it. I met some boys from Yirka who told me that women unable to bear children had been made fertile by visiting to this holy place.

I left the tomb and began walking the long dirt path through these beautiful Galilee hills. The dust from the path worked its way through my “biblical sandals” (סנדלים תנכיים) and coated my feet. I picked wheat growing along the way and rolled it in my hands to dislodge the grains. This was the country Jesus loved.

I returned at sunset and discovered festivities going on again. On the porch a group of musicians played, while people took turns singing, and some danced – dabka. It reminded me of the Druze music that transfixed me during my visit to Majdal Shams. After a half-hour the group broke up, and I got a hitch down to Tiberias. I enjoyed a pizza and beer at my favorite “California-style” restaurant.