Haifa, beach. Swimming in the Med—bobbing in the salt water for 30 minutes or an hour. I am used to the frigid Pacific Ocean, so it is wonderful to stand up to my neck in this warm water (85 degrees?) for long periods of time and gaze at the hills of Haifa....

Sat up on the hill praying and knew there is no place on earth I would rather be. Haifa is the most beautiful city on earth....

This week we toured the campus and our American tour guide noted all the smog. Brill tried to change the subject, but the guide said, "That is the difference between me and you - I think we need to face up to problems so we can fix them."

I tested into the highest level of ulpan (Hebrew language school). I guess my years of Hebrew—beginning at New Trier High School with Mr. Finkelstein and continuing through my first two years of UCLA—prepared me for this. We have started to bond as a class. There is this tall American redhead who is very funny, and a couple making aliyah from France. The redhead imitates their accent: “AH yeled AH gadol.”

They all say my Hebrew is very good. I know I have a lot to improve, and I think I need to study words much harder, read newspaper, review words, use them. Knowing the language gives me a huge advantage in forming friendships here.

I recall my roomate saying he was so impressed that I had learned Hebrew. I pointed out that he spoke English well, but he said, "I have to learn English, but you don't need to speak Hebrew."

"אני חייב ללמוד אנגלית, אבל אתה לא חייב ללמוד עברית."

At ulpan I met a Christian named Larry McCutcheon who told me about the local fellowship, Bet Hesda.

I am a bit unusual here - a Gentile Christian who speaks Hebrew. It will be nice to connect with Israelis who share my faith....

Shabbat. I spent the day in Haifa and then went to Congregation Bet Hesda. Such diversity, people praying in Hebrew and Arabic. I met Gerry afterward, and decided to join the Bible study group he has been leading in Arabic, Hebrew and English at the University.

29 July         Galilee   

Swam in the Kinneret. Fantastic! Most beautiful swimming ever. Fresh water, just the right temperature.

One of my friends listed our itinerary: Kursi, Hamat Gader, and Israeli-Syrian-Jordanian border, Kibbutz Ein Gev, Sea of Galilee, Belvoir Castle. So this trip focused on archeological sites east and south of the Kinneret. I wonder where I am in this photo? Somewhere high, looking down at the Sea. Could it be Kursi? (Belvoir is too far from the Sea.) This trip may have been when we enjoyed a rustic water slide. There were concrete troughs or sluices that water poured through. We dropped in and were rushed down the hillside!

In my journal I wrote, “I hate being a tourist. It bores me to visit the churches built on the site where Jesus did such-and-such. Jesus never set foot in a church.” Now, looking back, I regret that I was unable to appreciate the beauty of other people’s traditions and as a result I missed out on some of the beauty of this land, such as Easter at Church of the Holy Sepulchre or Christmas at Church of the Nativity. I was quick to visit Hittin for a Druze religious festival or the Wall for Yom Kippur, but missed out on these equally beautiful Christian celebrations.

30 July         Caesarea and Sdot Yam   

Liora, Jory and I took the bus to Ha Dar, and then hitched down the coast to Caesarea. It was fun hitchhiking – our first ride was in a Tsahal (Israeli army) truck. You meet such interesting people when you are hitching. We saw the ruins of Caesarea, Herod’s castle. Spent the day on the beach. Beautiful! Except for the ever-present trash. Cleaned the beach. Met Noam from Kibbutz Sdot Yam. Went back to his place and had a great time – he was so hospitable, gave us great food, beer, introduced me to Chava Albertstein music.

Liora said I have a real dati ("religious") spirit.

היא הופתעה כשלא רציתי לעשן מפרק.

?מה עוד אני צריך מרוח הקודש I said with a laugh.

4 August         North Coast: Rosh Ha Nikra, Nahariya, Akko   

We took a field trip on Yom Daleth (Wednesday) to Rosh Ha Nikra. Grottoes, ocean. I wanted to see the border so I walked up to it… and when the soldiers didn’t stop me I kept going and walked about 300 yards into Lebanon. I talked with a UN representative for awhile.

My friend's itinerary: Nahariya, Ma'alot, Montfort, Rosh HaNikra and Lebanese border, Achtziv, Acco.

11 August         Upper Galilee: Pek'in, Mt. Meron, Tsfat   

פקיעין Peki’in is a Druze town known as a place where Druze and Jews have lived together peacefully for many years. Until recently the town was inhabited almost continuously by Jews since Roman times. There is a famous synagogue in the town, as well as a cave where the great mystic, Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai, hid from the Romans and, according to tradition, wrote the Zohar.

Tsfat is a magical city of blue and white plaster, dangling light bulbs, and mystical murals. The glaring sun shines on chalky stone walls and ancient, narrow stone streets.

We entered a store and began talking with the storekeeper in Hebrew. I love practicing the language, and I join in, although I don’t understand everything being said. The storekeeper is gesturing toward a photo of a young woman who I assume is his daughter. I think he is talking about her wedding, so I tell him, “Congratulations.” My friends stare at me and repeat a word I don’t understand. “Niftar,” they repeat. “Niftar – Met.” “Met” is a word I understand: “died.” “Niftar,” I learn, means “passed away.” I immediately apologize for my terrible blunder and feel awful.

15 August         Tel Aviv   

I had planned on going to Ashkelon and Ashdod, but got off in central bus terminal at Tel Aviv and bumped into my friend Sandy. Spent day together, then went to Beit HaTfutsot, Museum of the History of the Diaspora, which was amazing.

21 August         Knafa with Elias

Shabbat of Week 5. I was feeling lonely and discouraged with my Hebrew - I had even skipped Hebrew class earlier in the week I was so down. Then, after Beit Hesda, my friend Elias invited me home.

Elias was such an encouragement to me! Fruit drink in his living room, then out to the local knafa restaurant. Arab hospitality, the spirit of "Ahlan w'sahlan."

You could never visit an Arab friend without being offered a fruit drink: rose water mixed with fruit juice. I am glad I had the opportunity to learn this. A friend remarked, "When I visit, you never offer me coffee." So I learned to make "Nes" in what I now call a jezveh - a small, stove top coffee warmer.

Café Nes is the common drink of students - hot water with coffee powder and sugar mixed in. I didn't learn to make Turkish coffee - which in Hebrew is called "mud" - until I met my Armenian inlaws years later.

Knafa became my favorite dessert, and I was astounded when I met Arpie after returning to the states and she offered to make it for me. She makes the 'cream' type of knafa, while in Israel I was served the 'cheese' style.

Now we are lucky enough to have a Lebanese restaurant in Bellevue (Byblos) which serves home-made cheese knafa on Sundays.

26 August         Bet Shearim, Arbel (next to Tiberias)   

Tiul to Bet Shearim, a moshav, a kibbutz, climbed down cliffs into some zealot caves. Swam in the Kinneret.

I spent the day talking with my friend from Uruguay, Beatrice. I had not yet been to the West Bank, but I was talking to some new Israeli friends who were anti-occupation. One was a member of Shalom Achshav. Another, Benny O., was a philosphy major from Nahariyya. He told me he wished the US government would cut off aid to Israel because he felt the US was enabling Israel's occupation. He felt this was disastrous for his country in the long run. As I browsed books in the University library, with the sun streaming into the stacks through giant windows, I started reading about the occupation and I started to grow concerned. So I began to discuss this with Beatrice in Hebrew - and she also expressed her concerns about the occupation.

28 August         Shabbat with Elias    

I really appreciate my friendship with Elias. He is such a special brother. He took me over to the Costa's house and we spent a couple of hours discussing spiritual matters in Hebrew and Arabic.

2 – 3 September         Isfiya   

On Erev Shabbat I hitched a ride on a UN jeep up to Isfiya to visit my Druze friend Farid and his family. We sat around the edge of the living room on Arab couches, upholstered foam pads on the floor. You sit on the pads and lean against the wall. Farid disappeared and returned later with a large round tray full of food that he placed on a stand in front of me. Homemade pita with hummous, lebni, and fried eggs in olive oil; Druze lavash bread, pickles, za’atar bread, and more.

I ended up spending the night and the next day watched the whole afternoon as Farid’s mother went through the traditional chores her grandmothers must have done for centuries: cooking, making a broom and washing the floor, sorting lentils. Yes, she actually made her own broom before sweeping! I watched her take a large piece of dough and go outside to her tanoor, her outdoor oven. The tanoor looks like a huge clay beehive with an opening in the front. She took the dough and threw it against the ceiling of the tanoor. They explained that it would fall off when it was ready. Fresh lavash is wonderful with tart lebni and green olives. We walked around outside and they showed me the za’atar they pick to make za’atar bread. When I returned to the states I learned that za’atar is a type of thyme.

When I married Arpie, I learned that in Armenian they say zakhter hots - thyme bread.

8 – 9 September         Golan   

Tel Hai, Gamla, Banyas, Kfar Haruv(?), Nahal Yehudiyya.

We learned about the history of this area by visiting Tel Hai, an early Halutz outpost in northern Galil, and Gamla, like a Masada of the north. Then we went to Banyas, and swam under the freezing falls.

While we were climbing out, laughing and shivering, I had no idea that my friend, Daniel, was in grave danger. He recently told me about his terrifying experience.

He swam across the pool through the icy water. He was never a strong swimmer - more of a dog paddler - and when he tried to return he was shivering uncontrollably and couldn't make it. He tried to climb out from his side of the pool, but the rocks were slick with green algae. Everyone else had already gotten out, so there was no one to help. He began to panic. Every spot was green and slippery, with no footholds. Somehow, he found a way to pull himself out, gasping prayers of thanks.

Later, we hiked at Mapal Yehuda, all along the river. We had to swim in several places and there was one place where we climbed down a 12-13 meter fall with ropes. My friends and I jumped, which was scary - but so much fun. There was an Israeli tour guide helping a group down with ropes - he said we were "mishugaim" - "crazy."

Golan Tiul | Google

11 September, Shabbat        Haifa  


Went to Farid’s house (I suppose after the service) for some homemade hummous. Farid is a Christian Arab friend of mine. Afterwards to the beach with some friends where we cooked fresh fish.

15 September         Mt Carmel to Mediterranean Sea 

A beautiful forested trail leads down the side of Mt. Carmel to the beach. On the way, I saw the most amazing lizard. I caught him and was amazed as he climbed on my hands for 15 minutes. I admire his climbing ability. He uses his arms and hands as skillfully and carefully as a human being. His length from head to tail is about 2 cm longer than this pen, and from the end of his body to his head is 3 cm shorter than this pen. His body is 3 cm tall. His eyes swivel on turrets – moving in all directions, independent of each other. His color was a grayish-tan, with brown triangles down his spine. His hands were like pinchers, with two fingers on one side and three on the other. I subsequently learned that this "lizard" was a chameleon. We don't find these while hiking around the US, and I had never seen one.

Swimming in the Mediterranean—bobbing out there for 30 minutes or an hour in the warm water.

Greatly enjoyed Dudi’s hospitality, spent a wonderful afternoon on the beach, and of course צמד חמד Tsemed Hemed for dinner. Dudi introduced me to the range of Israeli variations on the name David. I already knew Dudu from the dorms, now here was a guy named Dudi (or was it Dadi?) I decided “Daveed” was not good enough – I would be really Israeli by calling myself Dudu. But when I introduced myself this way to an Israeli girl, a friend of Monique’s, the girl commented, “Lo matim licha.” “Lama,” I asked. “Lo yoda’at….” ["It doesn't match you." "Why not?" "I'm not sure…"]

17 September        Rosh HaShana Eve ערב ראש השנה

Went to Beatrice's house for a Rosh HaShana party. She was a wonderful friend from Uruguay, who introduced me to her husband, Miguel, and her Uruguayan friends. They taught me to drink maté through a silver bombilla.

19 September         Bedouin Friends

Ahmed invited me and Mara over to see what a Bedouin family is like. It was wonderful. We spent the whole day, saw the cows and goats, their two houses. (The father won’t go into a stone house – it is too “fixed.”) The family was big – maybe 20 people – and such a joy because they did not just provide hospitality but welcomed us with love; they made us part of the family. I am attracted to the Bedouin extended family – constant acceptance by a large number of people. The food was really delicious, some of the best food I’ve ever had. They had just slaughtered a goat that morning (I believe it was in honor of us, the visitors) so we had fresh goat meat all day.

Now I am reminded of the Armenian tradition my father-in-law practiced at his wedding: they slaughtered a sheep, stepped over it into their house, then barbecued it to feed the guests. And the prodigal's father slaughtered the fattened calf when his son returned.

24 – 25 September         Nahal Zavitan: Nazareth, Capernaum Campground, Zavitan

Our travel group consisted of Mara, who helped me get invited to a Bedouin friend’s house, complete with freshly slaughtered goat; Dan, a Catholic student of Professor Richard Hecht’s from UCSB; Marty; and Jana, Marty’s girl friend. Marty had a hippie feeling about him, with long curly brown hair below his shoulders. I heard that he and Jana ended up moving to the Galilee and working on Jewish/Arab reconciliation projects affiliated with Peace Now. Marty was not only a cool guy, but his sister had made aliyah and had a car....

See my page Jumping the waterfalls of Zavitan.

26 – 30 September, Sunday to Thursday          Jerusalem

26 September         Erev Yom HaKippurim

My first time in Jerusalem. The Old City is like nothing I have seen, with narrow alleys twisting around like a maze, steps and sunken doors everywhere, and all of white stone. The old is ancient, the new is gleaming and modern. I was transfixed by the Wall. In the evening - Erev Yom Ha Kippurim ערב יום הכפורים - I davened there with an Ashkenazi minyan. Then I sat on a stone wall and watched the sky grow dark and the moon rise over the Kotel.

27 September         Yom HaKippurim

Rose early to daven at the wall from 5:30 AM to 9:30 AM. As we were davening I sensed the beauty of Judaism. I also kept thinking about the Torah portion, Leviticus 16, and the need for a kipporah. We prostrated ourselves on tissue paper, to keep clean, but I wished we could have stayed down longer than a moment. A nice, old man next to me helped me with the service.

28 September         Mount of Olives and Yad V'Shem

Walked up to the Mount of Olives to look out over Jerusalem and read Scriptures. In the afternoon I went to Yad V’Shem which was extremely moving.

I also spent time exploring Yafo Street on this trip.

30 September – 12 October         Sinai Trip

My dear friend Reuven and I traveled to Eilat, then crossed the border at Taba and walked to Coral Island. Bus to Nuweiba, where we ate with our Egyptian border-guard friend, Abdel, and slept on the beach. Then hired a bedouin teen to drive us in his jeep to Mt. Sinai. Afterwards, he drove us to Dahab and then we traveled by bus to Sharm El-Sheik. Then home by bus to Eilat, Be'er Sheva, Masada, Ein Gedi, Qumran, Jerusalem, and home to Haifa.

See my page Wandering the Sinai Desert.

18 October         Friendships at אוניברסיטת חיפה

My Israeli friend, Dudu (from Dimona), gets a new roommate: Reg, an Anglican minister from Canada who loves horses. Just two examples of the many wonderful friends I made here. Dudu introduced me to Fleetwood Mac - he used to make me try to figure out song lyrics for him. Reg was wonderful for spiritual guidance. I remember hiking in the woods around the University, at the top of Carmel. I saw him breathing in the chilly air and mentioning that he would always remember the wind here. He said it makes him think of the Holy Spirit.

My messy roomate, Gidon, was another great guy. We argued about politics, and when I changed rooms I told him, "אתה תתגעגע אלי" He later told me this was true. He would help me with my Hebrew, for example when I asked how to use the word "דווקא" - "לא ניקית את הכיור" "דווקא שמה ניקיתי"

Joav and Moshe were two other great roomates. Moshe was a small guy, so when I got tricked into buying a galabiya in Egypt that was too small for me, I gave it to him. He gave me his Bible he received for graduation. Joav had a very sweet girlfriend, Tamar. He did great in his courses, but said he could not go to grad school because he struggled with English. He told me he wanted to travel and I asked, "To the US?" No, he told me, it was probably similar to Israel. He wanted to travel to the Far East.

Some other friends: Rucha (who visited me in Stanford), Ruti (tall, dark hair, blue eyes), Nick, Rachel, Avishai, Michal.

11 – 20 October         Classes Start at אוניברסיטת חיפה

What a fantastic feeling it was to arrive back in Haifa. It felt like coming home – Haifa has become my home. After our summer at ulpan in Haifa, most of the students in the UC Education Abroad Program elected to go to Hebrew University in Jerusalem. I chose to stay in Haifa because I felt I would be more immersed in Hebrew here.

Every Wednesday night there was a folk dancing class with over one hundred dancers in a large hall. Another highlight: the sunlight streaming in through the giant windows in the library as I browsed the stacks. And the little campus store where I would buy a breakfast of a fresh roll with tomoto and cheese, or pita with hummus. The gruff Israeli student cashier sneered, "!פחד מוות" when I didn't like the price of shampoo. I didn't know what to say, so I said, "!כן"

A Jewish Israeli friend introduced me to Shalom Achshav. I remember a discussion between him and our professor, who was also a former high-level military leader in the Israeli army. They were arguing over the occupation. At one point my friend said, "What's wrong with the Allon plan?" And the professor responded, "Listen, I helped draft the Allon Plan." My friend became agitated, and finally he said, "I can leave!" "You don't have to," responded the professor, gently. "אני יכול לעזוב!" "אתה לא מוכרך"

12 – 20 November         Spritual Fellowship

12 – 13 November          Messianic Youth Conference
19 – 20 November          Visit to Rechovot fellowship, with Baruch Maoz teaching

26 November (Thanksgiving)          Jerusalem – Israel Museum – Shrine of the Book

Reading the actual Dead Sea Scrolls was thrilling. I went to Jerusalem and visited the Israel Museum. After so long studying about the Qumran scrolls and looking at facsimiles it was exciting to read the real thing. I saw and read: letters, deeds and marriage contracts from Nahal Hevel, including Bar Kochba and Babata documents; Manual of Discipline; War Scroll; tefillin script from Deuteronomy 5:2 - 6:8 and a tefillin capsule; Pesher Habakkuk; Prayer of Nabinodus; 11 QPs a with YHWH in the ancient script; Isaiah scroll (36:20 - 40:23 was on display) - letters, words and phrases were inserted above the line and to the side; Temple Scroll; facsimile of entire Isaiah scroll; tallitoth.

The Israel Museum now has scrolls online for study.

3 December          Archeology Class Field Trip to Bet Shearim

I returned to this necropolis of more than 30 burial cave systems about 20 km from Haifa in the Lower Galilee. My archeology class notebook notes "8-12" leaving me time to continue my journey, below.

3 – 6 December          Eilat Mountains Hike

Afterwards, I continued to Jerusalem. Spent the morning at the Temple Mount and Dome of the Rock. I planned to hike across the Judean Desert, and I traveled to Jericho, which was beautiful. But the rain was relentless. So I made a plan with my buddy Ryan, and we fled to Be’er Sheva to hike in the Negev. It was still raining in Be’er Sheva, so we kept going. We fled all the way to the end of the country – Eilat – where we finally escaped the rain.

We spent three days hiking through the stunning mountains of Eilat. We didn’t see a single person and refilled our water bottles at a spring that looked like an ancient trough carved out of the rock. The country is astonishing, full of striking colors – like Gey Abud that looks like blood is dripping down its sides, covering strips of dark brown, tan, yellow, and white sand. In some places the contours and rocks make you feel you are gazing over the hills of the moon. We hiked into Egypt to become illegal immigrants for half an hour, and got a stunning view of Eilat, Jordan and the Gulf on our return.

Note from 2019: I remember hustling well into the dusk on our final evening, looking for a campsite. I believe we ended up in or near Red Canyon. I recall climbing down large boulders along the way until we found a good camping spot. I remember looking up at the sky at night; I was amazed at the number of stars I could see.

My description above, "gazing over the hills of the moon," matches Har Shkhoret just past Gey Abud. So our route may have been from Eilat to Gey Abud (either stopping at the spring on the way, or perhaps on the way back), then from Gey Abud to Har Shkhoret. From there, if we followed the main trail, we would go through Shkhoret Canyon and on to Amram's Pillars - Mitspeh Amram. You have to turn off the main Israel Trail after Diklei Raham oasis to follow a path along Nahal Shani. Perhaps this was a little tricky, and explains why we were rushing into the evening before stopping to camp in the vicinity of Red Canyon.

There is a great web site devoted to some of this tiul, with great photos: השביל האדום: קניון שחורת

My hiking attire | Cort

17 December          Jerusalem – last night of Hanukkah

I went to Jerusalem for the last night of Hanukkah. From Haifa to Jerusalem: the coast, the orchards, the eucalyptus, the hills, the ascent. I walked through the New City and then sat at the Wall for an hour, watching the giant menorah they light there. A feeling of connection to this place is deepening in me. I soaked in the ancient white rocks, the miles of ancient alleyways, the shouts of Erev Shabbat at Mahane Yehudah. I walked down King David Street and saw the YMCA, the King David Hotel, the Moses Montefiore windmill, Jerusalem Children’s Park, Herod’s Tomb. I enjoyed a beautiful view of the Old City. Then I walked from campus along Mt. Scopus and the Mt. of Olives up to the Damascus Gate, through ancient-looking olive groves.

24 December          Haifa – Christmas Eve

My friend Farid invited me to spend Christmas Eve with his family. He must have known I felt a bit lonely. After growing up in America, it was strange to live in a place where Christmas was invisible. The Arab Christian tradition is to eat shish-kebab on Christmas eve, so I helped Farid with the tiny charcoal hibachi on their apartment’s small balcony. I looked out over the old stone houses and television antennas of Arab Haifa, houses scattered and built at all different levels. The fire-shadows of Christmas shish-kebab flickered on all the balconies around us. After we ate, we discovered Baba Noel had paid us a visit – little Louise’s eyes lit up! My loneliness was gone, I felt accepted as a member of this family.

31 December          Haifa Walk

Walked down from University to Haifa for Beatrice's New Year's Eve party. It was Friday, so I had to walk and hitch down to Neve Shanan. Then enjoyed the hour's walk through the rain down the long steps to Haifa. When I arrived I remembered I was supposed to come earlier, since we were going somewhere together - and they had left! I was disappointed, but I enjoyed the hour's walk back. "Soaking in and appreciating each experience."

I remember there must have been something going on in Haifa, because (Western) New Year's Eve is known as "Leyl Sylvester."

The long walk down Haifa's steps, past the Baha'i Temple, looking out over the old neighborhoods to the Mediterranean - this is one of my most beautiful memories of Haifa. I would love to take the walk again some day....

I like to reminisce at sites like "Haifa Trail" or "Walking the 100 steps of Haifa - Israel" by Jacomijn. I feel such a warm feeling of nostalgia when I look at her images of a walk I took so many times when I lived in Haifa. Here are some of her wonderful photos:

| Jacomijn

| Jacomijn

German Colony | Jacomijn

These images are from a wonderful web site by Jacomijn

1 January, Shabbat          Nostalgia for Home

After services at Beit Hesda, my friend Nick and I went to a performance of Handel's Messiah, then saw the movie E.T. "Remembering the familiar and comfortable, my American culture, home. I have a love for Israel and for the United States. Watching E.T. I could identify in a new way. You can love someone, or something, very much, yet know you'll die if you don't get home." I was reading The Little Prince about the same time. "Saying goodbye is an inevitable part of life; it doesn't have to be sad. We should appreciate the time we have together and rejoice in our memories."

Later in the week I saw the movie Ordinary People. I had never reflected on my own culture, never wanted to see myself as an American. It was only when I was immersed in a different culture that I was forced to see my own, and accept myself as part of it.

2 January          Galilee – Archeology Field Trip

Synagogue and church at Capernaum; synagogue mosaics at Hamat Tiberias and Bet Alpha; Roman theater at Bet Shean. This was a field trip with my archeology class at the university.

7 – 9 January         January Negev Tiul

A time of learning about, and feeling, the Negev. Visited Sde Boker Research Institute and learned about architectural research (passive solar, especially adobe), energy research (such as salt ponds) and agricultural research (raising algae). Visited Yamit, a planned town for eastern immigrants, and learned about its problems. Hiked a day in the Negev Desert to Ein Avdat. Negev is different from the Sinai. You don't feel surrounded by the tall, sharp mountains. The Negev is full of much shorter buttes, much softer and less colorful - browns, tans, yellows, whites. The buttes are oval land flat on top, dropping straight down for a short way, then spilling down gradually in huge ramps of dirt. We also drove through The Big Crater (HaMakhtesh HaGadol) המכתש הגדול.

12 January          Haifa Theatre

Went to see a production of Nefesh Yehudi נפש יהודי הלילה האחרון של אוטו ויינינגר with my good friend, Michal. I was so impressed by the production that I bought the script - I still have it.

I remember when Michal and I first purchased a season pass to the theater, back in September. The theater manager had remarked, "It seems you speak better Hebrew than he does." Michal responded blandly, כנראה. I laughed and said, אני נמצא בארץ רק חודשיים. נכון, she said.

13 – 16 January, Thursday to Sunday          Qumran Trip: Qumran, Jerusalem, Tel Aviv

13 – 14 January          Qumran

Read about my experiences hiking through the desert near Qumran and my encounter with wild dogs. See the paper on Qumran I wrote for one of my classes at the University of Haifa, The Bible and Qumran. See the notes I took while exploring Qumran.

14 – 15 January          Qumran and Jerusalem

As I wrote above, I spent Friday morning (January 14) exploring the ruins of Qumran. "In the afternoon, I climbed up Wadi Qumran - an excellent climb (green trail)."

Then a spent "a beautiful Shabbat evening" with Jory. She let me stay in her dorm room, and the next day I visited the Messianic congregation in Jerusalem and spent the evening with my dear friend Reuven. He played his guitar - Cat Stevens and Peter, Paul and Mary. He ended with the song "The Great Mandala."

16 January          Tel Aviv

I went on to Tel Aviv and had an amazing time. I disliked it my first visit. But this time, as I walked through one of the residential sections, I felt something special. I tried to identify what I was feeling, and at last I realized it felt like home - like Los Angeles. I really have a special feeling about Tel Aviv. That means I also think of LA as home.

23 – 31 January          School

I spent my last week and a half frantically writing papers. I wrote three good papers - I can see my growth as a historian.

February          Egypt Trip

Read about my experiences in Cairo.
Read about my experiences traveling through Egypt to Luxor, Aswan and Hurghada.
Read about the accident I witnessed near Qena. "This is not America," I was told.

March          Friendships

March was a special time with friends. Elias, Farid, Michal, Beatrice, the Gardi family, Carol and George, Reg, Jamal, Dr. Weaver, Rafi and Roni.... and the brothers and sisters I met at the Pesach Conference!

17 – 20 March          Kinneret Trip

Sha'ar ha Golan, North Lip (Capernaum, Beattitudes, "Beni"), Brekhat ha Meshushim, Ein Gev, Tiberias

Went with Elise to Kibbutz Sha'ar HaGolan to visit Reg. It was great to see him in his natural environment, working with horses, where he looks so comfortable. It is such a beautiful place, especially as spring was beginning and wildflowers were everywhere. We walked a lot in the fields, and the second day Reg and I had the chance to talk for an hour or two by the fishpond. He talked about his uncertainty about his desire to pursue riding. Then I opened up to him and shared about my uncertainties about which road to choose now that I was at a strategic point in life. I had wanted to share this with Reg because I admire him so much. And he gave me some valuable insights. He helped me realize that going on and getting a graduate degree is not closing down roads, rather it is opening them up. It was so good to spend time with this brother I love.

Caught a hitch on the horse truck up the western shore of Kinneret. Got off at the North Intersection and started hiking across the North Shore. Looked up to my left and saw what seemed to be the Hill of Beatitudes, so I turned and started hiking up a dirt path. The wildflowers and irrigated fields were gorgeous. Wild wheat grows there, as well as a lot of thorn plants with purple flowers. I thought these must be the inspiration for the parable of the tares. Arrived at the top to a beautiful, eight-sided, glass-windowed church. You stand in church and have an amazing view of the Kinneret.

I walked away from the church and the people to a quiet place in the middle of the grove. I looked out over the Kinneret and read the Sermon on the Mount. It seemed especially meaningful and clear in that context; I understood it and felt it.

I had not brought much food and it was Erev Shabbat, but walking along through the groves I saw all the grapefruit on the ground…. As I was eating one, I thought of how an alien would have felt 3000 years ago: what a wise God is the God of Israel, to give instructions providing for them. It was fun to glean.

There was a feeling in the air as the sun set, a certain familiar smell… I struggled and finally identified it as cross country at New Trier West. It was liberating to realize that is a special part of my life which I will always appreciate, and yet I have no need or desire to go back and compete now. Seek ye first…

This is the lake that Jesus loved. These are the hills he spent so many hours walking through.

Restaurant to Beni for dinner, and an Egyptian movie. I slept at the campground, my first real wilderness camp alone.

A morning swim in the Kinneret, cold and invigorating, and then walked along the North Shore along the paths through the hills. What flowers – reds, blues, purples, yellows against the soft green background of grass. And the blue Kinneret stretching out below. Hiked up to Brekhat HaMeshushim, with a hitch on Tsahal (Israeli army) truck. They really are hexagonal rocks!

Hitched down to Ein Gev and camped in the hills, at the feet of the Golan Heights. I enjoyed a beautiful panorama of the Kinneret all night long. I walked around the hillside as the sun went down until it was pitch black. Then I realized I could not see my camp anywhere! I searched and searched, praying more and more frantically until – I found my camp. God provides.

I had a relaxing morning at Ein Gev reading scriptures. The boat ride back took 40 minutes on very calm water. I spent the afternoon in Tiberias, a quaint town with California-style pizza places.

Themes of the trip: developing a strong feeling for the Kinneret, and a meaningful spiritual time.

25 – 27 March          Golan Trip

I traveled with Elise and Loren. We spent an hour and a half at Kiryat Shmonah, a nice quiet town with a red, yellow and blue tank sculpture at the entrance.

Took the bus to Tel Dan – beautiful, with paths winding around through the springs and rivers. We went off on a more adventurous path, and in getting back had to cross a very tricky pipe-bridge. Elise and Loren were real sports, even though Elise got wet. We spent the night at Tel Dan and had to pay to get out!

Next day we got two great hitches and arrived at Majdal Shams. We met Jamal's delightful family, and when he arrived we had a great meal, including the specialty here – jam from חבושים(quince).

We walked down to the border: there was the Israeli patrol road and fence, the UN zone, marked by a white house, painted "UN", and the Syrian side. I was moved by what we saw – a number of middle-aged Druze women shouting over megaphones to the other side. Jamal explained that they were calling to their family members who had been cut off from them during the 1967 war. Although some Druze here are given permission to study in Syria, apparently neither side was willing to let these particular families visit each other. One woman was calling to her son whom she had not seen in 15 years. This experience set the tone for my Golan trip. I gained a feeling for the tragedies of war and especially for these simple people caught in the middle. Then we all hiked up the Hermon, through the snow, although it was 70° outside! We went sledding on nylon at the best place, at the top. Jamal knows all the ins and outs. This is the way to see Hermon!

We talked and ate for a long time at Jamal's aunt's house. It was fascinating to hear the Druze stories and lore. The imperative of Druze brotherhood, astounding bravery based on the belief in reincarnation, stories of proofs of reincarnation, viciousness of the Syrians against Jamal's uncle's family, the strikes that had taken place here over the summer as the result of Israeli insistence on registration with IDs. (I didn't believe him until I saw the photographs.)

We visited many relatives, and each time received a meal.

We went to a Druze wedding. The bride was sitting on a garlanded throne, while girls danced and chanted in a circle. We spent the night at Jamal's uncle's house.

I will keep up with my relationship with Jamal Mustafa. He is a special person, full of love.

Loren and I caught a hitch down to Nimrod castle where we spent an hour or two, and then hiked down to the intersection. We saw Mapaley Sa'ar (מפלי סער) in full force. We caught the 4 o'clock bus from Kiryat Shmonah that goes all through the Golan: Majdal Shams, El Rom, Marom Golan, Ein Zivan, Or Tal, Qatsrin, Rosh Pinah.

What beautiful open green fields and hills. I hung on every new field, and I felt the beauty of this land as the sun went down over the mountains of Galilee. I felt a special connection to Qatsrin. We returned through Tiberias and had dinner at my California pizza restaurant.

Mapal Sa'ar | Dirk Elbers

29 March          Haifa Hike to Elias's House

"A mini-tiul here in Haifa. Because of the holiday, I ran all the way from the University to Elias' house: 20-25 minutes to Ahuza, 30-35 minutes to Carmel." Elias lived at HaParsim 4, kumah 2.

As I examine maps today, it looks like I would take the bus from the University to Merkaz HaCarmel, and then walk along a promenade near Yefe Nof, and then down the steps, like Gadera Stairs and Gamla Stairs, past the Bahai Temple, to the German Colony, where Elias lived near Derech Allenby, at HaParsim 4. They lived on the second floor, and had a pretty little garden. Whenever I dropped by they would offer me fruit drinks with rose water - wonderful memories of walking, friendship and hospitality!

30 March – 3 April          Passover Conference

One of the highlights of my time in Israel, with Israeli Messianic Community. Felt like I was part of a family of faith.

3 April          Carmel – southern side

I suppose this was my journey home from the Passover Conference, which may have been in Tel Aviv or Rechovot. First, I rode up through the coastal towns: Kfar Saba, Hadera, Pardes Hana, Zicharon Yaakov. From there walked and ran to the El Yikkim junction, caught a hitch to Dalya, walked to Isfiya, and took taxi home.

6 April          Carmel Hike

"Another hike in the Carmel, this time through Nahal Heyk (נחל חיק), with Elise, Rafi, Roni and Said. The Carmel is beautiful, and I have grown so attached to Isfiya."

Searching online, I see that you walk along a trail between boulders and on stone steps to arrive at Isfiya.

14 – 17 April          Desert Hike – Negev and Judean Desert

Started at Masada and from Har Eleazar took the Red Trail to Nahal Kidud and camped. On day 2 walked from Nahal Kidud into Arad where I had breakfast. Then left Arad by way of the dirt roads, went through Nahal Abuv and then followed the main road south to Nahal Hemar where I camped for the night. Next day I hiked through Gey Hemar, refilling my canteen at the spring (I had to dig into the mud and let the dirt settle), then out to the Dead Sea.

See my page Wandering the Negev Desert.

17 April          Haifa – Erev Yom HaAtzmaut

Went out to celebrate with Elise. We danced Israeli folk dance for awhile at Carmel, then walked down to HaDar. The main street, Hertzel, was cordoned off, and it was packed. I was surprised the first time someone hit me with a hammer, but then learned the custom of anonymously beating strangers with "independence hammers." We make our own party, dancing at outdoor restaurant.

18 April          Yom HaAtzmaut – Haifa Navy Base, Acco

I went to the Navy Base for Independence Day. Regulations were posted, and I noted that half of the haircut regulations had to do with payyus. Viewed all the ships, with their Israeli-made "Gabriel" missiles. Fun and colorful with all the people and flags. Then I took the bus up to Acco. I mixed into a tour group and toured the castle, then went through the Independence Museum, מוזיאון הגבורים. Ended the evening at מסעדה אחי עוודה (Awooda, I think). A delicious meal – the labne and olives were so tart, and the hummous was wonderful. I read the story of Gideon from my Hebrew Bible.

19 April          Uruguayan Friends, Beatrice and Miguel

We always drank maté when I dropped by, sipping it from gourds through silver bombillas.

Some time after this, perhaps in May or June, Beatrice told me she needed to tell me something.

"אני ומיגל נפרדנו." I was shocked and I wasn't sure how to respond. I was silent. So she concluded, "אז, זהו."

22 – 23 April          Netanya, Tel Aviv

Went to Tel-Aviv to fix my camera, but found it was unfixable in Israel. Then caught a bus to Netanya, but found that Reuven (a different one, I believe) was gone for Shabbat, so I walked along the beach and slept there. On Shabbat I spent a delightful afternoon sitting in the shade of a citrus grove, eating oranges and whole-wheat bread, and reading about Joseph in my Hebrew Bible.

24 April          Samaria Trip with University of California Group

Visited Israeli settlements: Maale Efraim, Derekh Haim (beautiful houses), Kdumim (propaganda lecture by Gush spokesman).

My calendar notes: "5:30 AM Samaria Trip." And I have a business card for David and Ester Golan, from Ahuza, Haifa, with a note on the back: "Our nice tour guide, who took us through the West Bank and told us to drop by some time."

25 April          Hittin Trip – Druze Festival of Nabi Yitro

See my page Druze Festival at Hittin.

29 April – May 1          West Bank Trip – first trip, with Loren

A highlight was meeting this Palestinian family who welcomed us in, partied with us, opened a jar of jam as a special dessert, and let us sleep in their home. They lived in what was marked as a hostel on our map at Hammamat al Maleh (Google maps) or Hammam al Malih on route 5799 about four miles east of Tubas. Upon further research, I have discovered this is a Bedouin region, so I wonder if our friends were Bedouin?

See the page West Bank - April.

11 – 12 May          Jerusalem, Bethlehem

Dinner with my friends, Reuven and Anne. Next day, walk down to Bethlehem: Rachel's Tomb, Church of the Nativity, over the "Davidic Shepherd Fields" to Herodion. Nahal Hariton and hitch back with group.

This seems to have been my exposure to the caves at Hariton and Nahal Tekoa. Reuven and I returned later in the month (27 May) to spelunk here, but this may be the time we went with the group and a guide.

14 – 16 May          Carmel Hike

My calendar says: "Bet Oren, Monastery, Gamal, Rafi"

Since this trip took several days, I imagine I visited my Druze friends in Isfiya and Daliya. I would often visit and spend the night.

17 – 19 May          Jerusalem – Shavuot

Nice meal at Fondak Halav פונדק חלב. Rockefeller Museum, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Tour under the Wall in the East Wall excavations with Baruch Levine, and Karaite Museum and synagogue.

20 – 22 May         Sea to Sea Hike – Yam L’Yam Tiul – Upper Galilee, Nahariyya to Tsfat

I did this tiul with my new roommate, an American, after I changed rooms in the dorms. One highlight I remember is coming upon a small village with a simple Arab restaurant and eating the most delicious, tart lebni.

27 May          Spelunking in the Judean Desert outside Jerusalem

Reuven and I returned to the caves our group had explored earlier. This time we tried doing it ourselves. (I was reckless back then!) There were places where we had to crawl through tunnels on our bellies.

I have a map for "נחל תקוע מערת חריטון" - "Nahal Tekoa Caves of Hariton."

28 May          Wadi Qelt – the Wadi – St. George Monastery – Jericho – The ruins – Qantara (Mt. of Temptations)

This looks like a wonderful day hike, starting in the Ein Prat Nature Preserve and ending in Jericho, a hike of about 12 miles. Ruins must refer to Jericho, which has ruins of ancient synagogues and 8,000 year-old city walls. Qantara is Mount Quarantania, or Jabal al-Qarantal in Arabic.

Afterwards, "8 PM Hecht's house - party."

29 May          Jerusalem

Sightseeing: Hezekiah's Tunnel, Tomb of David, Tower of David, City Museum

Since The Tower of David Museum of the History of Jerusalem did not open until 1989, I think my reference to the "City Museum" must be the Israel Museum.

Then back to Haifa: "4 PM Elias."

3 – 5 June          West Bank Trip 2 – this time alone

Jerusalem to Hebron, Ramallah, Nablus. Met Abd, a Samaritan priest, and spent night at his house. "We had a delightful evening sitting on his porch and discussing faith." Sat in on Yosef's Hebrew lesson for three young men who are applying for jobs with Israeli companies. Next day hitched to Tulkarm and returned home through Sharon Junction and up the coast.

See my page West Bank - June.

11 June          Caesarea Snorkeling Trip

I made a list to prepare for the trip. "Caesarea: mask and snorkel, student card, money, Caesarea notebook, lunch, canteen, old shoes, white t-shirt. =Leave watch!= =Rise 4 AM!=" I rose early and hiked through Nahal Galim to the coast. I had to wait 2 hours to get my first hitch, but it was worth it: the people who picked me up told me about Hof Dor, an important ancient port. I saw the museum, ruins and beautiful beach. I then hitched to Caesarea but was disappointed because the water was too rough to swim. But I had the discretion not to risk it, so I canceled my snorkeling plans. I wasn't sure if I should go home or go to Tel Aviv, but I got a hitch to Tel Aviv with a "delightful Turk." "Had a good dinner of malawah (מלאווח) which is like a cross between a pastry and a pizza," and went to Bet Immanuel. "It was really good to see everybody again. They welcomed me so warmly, urging me to return to Israel."

19 June          Tur’an Trip

Tur'an is between Haifa and Tiberias, a little north of Nazareth. I think this is when I visited my Arab friends, and they politely taught me that we always wash our feet before bed. I remember pulling out the Arab mattresses and putting them on the floor, with the Arab comforters. I believe their names were Zead Hadad, and Rowda and Yosef Matar.

June          Majdal Shams Trip

Another visit to my friend, Jamal. I remember watching the enchanting dabka singing and dancing, and purchased a tape (which I still have) labeled "Majdal Shams" in Arabic.